Servo coolant screen set is done

 Ok folks I have finished the servo coolant nozzle screen set for Mach3. So far it has been working pretty good.
   When I installed it on the ORK mill, I got my tool off set measurements wrong. It drove me nuts for an hour or two. I was thinking, Gosh it worked perfect on my cardboard testing setup. Here I was measuring the tool  length from the flange instead of the difference between my zero tool and current tool. Have been doing other things besides machining and forgot.

   I tried my best to make it easy to install. The screen set folder contains a few setting pictures and installing directions. There are two options in the nozzle parking Brains Ver1 and Ver2.   Ver2 is the default  and has a more positive, solid  action. Some of the arduino code needs to be changed for Ver1 to work correctly. There is a note pad file in the screen set folder with all the details.

  The screen set can be found on this CNC zone thread. http://www.cnczone.com/forums/open-source-controller-boards/176725-arduino-controlled-coolant-nozzles.html

 From this project, I have learned a lot about screen sets, brains, Arduino programming, Modbus, Inkscape and trigonometry.   At times I felt like my brain was going to explode.

 Here is a couple of videos showing how things work. Any questions can be left here, the CNC zone thread or on my Youtube channel. Have fun and be safe :)

Outer fabric skin and making clean edges

 
     The pictures below show the skinning of the front bulkhead. Since the walls will be assembled later the corners and edges need to be flat and even. The fabric is placed over the wall, half of it is folded back and glue is applied. Then it is placed back over the glue and pressed down with an iron on the lowest heat setting. This technique as also used to apply the inside fabric and the builders paper.

Tape is used to make clean strait edges. Excess is trimmed off 

flip over fabric edge

applying tightbond 2 glue 

Fold at edge of the tape

add more glue to folded edge

press flat with iron and remove tape

finished corner nice and flat to screw to the floor section.

inside of front wall

outer skin, just need to apply more Tightbond 2  that will
soak in and give a hard surface finish. 

close up  of outer fabric

Small camper build

     After many years of packing my car full to travel to archery festivals, I decided it's time to build
a small travel trailer. This way I can load up the trailer with gear, have a galley for cooking and a warm place to sleep. Oh yeah, so i can bring more fire wood, the Denton hill shoot was really cold this year and the camp mack shoot is always cold.

      The camper is made to slide on to a 4X8 foot utility trailer. Weight is my biggest factor in the build. It is going to made with pine framing with foam cores and covered with fabric and glue. It is designed with a pop up roof and the left side folds down to in crease the sleeping area. When traveling it can be used with out opening the top or side bunk, (like a couple of hours sleep at a wallmart parking lot).

       Since I don't have a garage it will be built in my basement in pieces over the winter and assembled out side in the spring. The parts will be left and right walls, front wall, roof, galley and floor.

 

right side showing galley an entry door

left side showing fold down bunk and pop up top

 

unfinished boards from old skids that were used in shipping  new
chicken house equipment

ripped and planed boards.They were left to dry out for a month or two,measured and
checked for shrinkage.  

Floor with foam core to add strength, new materials were used
in this part. I for got to rip the boards to a wider width.

top floor showing storage holes. The  covering was trimmed
with a router

front bulk head 

covered in builders paper 

right side

covered in paper 

The inside is covered with old table cloths I had laying around

coated and sealed with acrylic paint with no pigment added

finished interior of the front bulk head.